Ace Marks Review: Italian Craftsmanship and Superb Value

Diablo Double Monk Strap Shoes from Ace Marks — *Diablo Double Monk Strap Shoes* *from Ace Marks*

Hello, friends.

Today, I will be providing a thorough and complete review of my Ace Marks double monk strap shoes.

I don’t have an unlimited budget for buying clothing, so I find it imperative that I choose items that are of great quality while providing excellent value.

The problem is that many men - including myself when I first started out - are unable to find products that land in that sweet spot of great craftsmanship and (relative) affordability.

When you spend $100 on a pair of dress shoes, you get what you pay for. The leather quality will be subpar, the last (i.e., the shape of the shoe) is bulky and unattractive, and they will use the cheapest construction methods possible.

On the other hand of the spectrum, we have shoes that can range from $600 to $1000 and many that are astronomically more than that.

It’s easy for me not to want expensive shoes from high-fashion brands (think Gucci, Ferragamo, Louis Vuitton, etc.) because I know they aren’t worth even half their price tags.

However, I’m always tempted when I see expensive shoes from incredible shoemakers like Crockett and Jones, Antonio Meccariello, Enzo Bonafe, and so on. These shoes are well worth every penny (at least to me), but sadly, my current budget doesn’t really allow for such luxuries.

For many years, my question was, can you find great quality shoes for around $200-300?

The answer is an unequivocal yes, and to see why, continue reading for my full thoughts or click here to see my conclusion.

Ace Marks’ History

Before I dive into the review, I’ll briefly speak about the history of Ace Marks and what sets them apart.

Ace Marks was founded in 2012 with the goal of providing men with quality shoes that didn’t break the bank. Through their direct-to-consumer model, they managed to eliminate costs that they would have incurred in the traditional retail model and delivered on their promise of providing luxury shoes at affordable prices.

They are also one of the most successful companies on Kickstarter, and they introduce many of their new shoe models through that medium. Though they initially started with more classic shoe styles, they have experimented a lot with bold colors and styles, and they now offer a wide array of dress shoes, sneakers, and leather goods.

Purchase Experience

I purchased the shoes in August 2020 - they were a birthday gift from my wife, but she allowed me to pick out the style and color myself since I’m quite picky.

Ace Marks’ website is a pleasure to navigate. Everything is laid out intuitively, and it’s quick and easy to find what you’re looking for. No digging endlessly through product pages.

They also have detailed size charts and printouts so you can measure your feet at home, but this was a step that I (regrettably) glossed over.

The shoes I chose were double monk straps in a color they call “diablo,” which is most similar to oxblood. I went with a size US 10.5, which was a mistake, though I’ll get to sizing later in the article.

The shoes cost $300, but I had a discount code for 15% off my total purchase. I went with standard shipping, and the shoes arrived within four days of me placing the order.

The shoes arrived with a protective travel bag in the box, which is expected at this price point, but they also came with a shoe horn, which was a pleasant surprise. It was made of plastic, but notwithstanding, it was still nice to see, as many other companies don’t include one in the box.

The shoes looked great out of the box, though the color was slightly lighter than how it appeared on the website.

*Front Shot of Double Monk Strap Shoes from Ace Marks in Diablo*

Construction and Finishing

Ace Marks’ shoes are made in an Italian factory by a “renowned family of 4th generation Italian artisans.” Supposedly, these artisans also make shoes for many of Italy’s top luxury brands.

All of Ace Marks’ shoes are built using what they call “Blake flex construction,” though, to me, it appears to be a standard Blake stitch.

For those of you who don’t know, the Blake stitch is a construction method where a thread is sewn through three layers: the outsole, the upper (the leather on the top part of the shoe), and the insole. (Another popular construction method for higher-end shoes is the Goodyear welt, and I will break down the differences between these construction types in a later post.)

Italian shoes often use the Blake stitch because it allows them to create the sleek profile they strive to attain. Since this is a stitched shoe, a cobbler can resole them several times, thereby extending the lifespan of the shoes.

Another big selling point that Ace Marks often stresses is their use of full-grain leather, which is the top grade of leather you can get. No, this does not mean that Ace Marks shoes have the best leather in the world; rather, it means that the grain of the leather has not been altered or corrected.

What this means practically for you as a consumer is that it will age superbly. The leather’s pores will continue to absorb any creams or polishes you add to them, and they will develop a beautiful patina over time, each one wholly unique. The leather is also stronger and won’t be as susceptible to cracking.

With corrected grain leathers, the grain is sanded down during the tanning process (likely due to dozens of flaws on the hide), and then a dye is added to the leather. Over time, that dye will fade, and you’ll be left with leather that is scarred, doesn’t absorb new polishes as readily, and cracks easily.

Now, while Ace Marks is quick to tout their use of full-grain leather, they don't mention anywhere on their site where the leather comes from or which tannery they use, and that’s a shame.

There's also no mention of what metal they use to make their shoe buckles (or belt buckles, for that matter), which is a bit of an oversight.

*Closeup Shot of Ace Marks Double Monks*

Regardless, you can’t deny the beauty and character of the leather - just take a look at the picture above.

The finishing on the shoes is great, with uniform and neat stitching all around, which you can see in both the picture above and the one below, demonstrating the rear seams.

All of their shoes are hand-dyed and hand-burnished, and that process ensures that no two pairs of shoes will look exactly alike, as each artisan will apply the dyes and burnish differently.

This process creates the depth and richness of color you see in the shoes, with some spots (usually near the toe) being darker than others.

*Closeup Demonstrating the Effects of Hand-Dying and Hand-Burnishing on Ace Marks Shoes*

All Ace Marks shoes have a full calfskin lining and insole, something which you’d never find on a mall brand shoe, but readily available in most shoes at this price point. Still, it’s nice to have, as the leather lining will hold up better over time, allows your feet to breathe more, and is more comfortable.

The outsole (the bottom part that you walk on) is made of leather as well, and it’s generally the first part of the shoe that wears down. Cheaper shoes usually use composites designed to imitate leather for their outsoles, and those wear through quite quickly, usually within six months to a year.

Drawbacks

No shoe is perfect, and despite getting most things right, Ace Marks does cut corners and can improve in a few ways.

In an Ace Marks teardown and review done by cobblers Trenton & Heath in late 2019, they showed that Ace Marks used compressed particle board for their heel blocks. It’s unrealistic to expect a $300 shoe to have a fully stacked leather heel block (a feature found in much more expensive shoes), but other shoes in this price range use compressed leather trimmings which is a better method for making the heel blocks.

It’s unfortunate that Ace Marks cut corners in this regard instead of using comparable materials to their competitors, especially since they’re more expensive than some of them.

Additionally, I had two issues with the straps of the shoes. While the top strap had a piece of elastic attached to it, the bottom strap didn’t, making it more difficult to buckle.

I also felt that the holes punched in the straps weren’t spaced far enough apart. It’s a constant struggle for me to buckle the bottom straps, which has caused the leather around the holes to become frayed and damaged. While it’s possible that this problem could be alleviated if I chose a shoe a half size up, I don’t believe that’s the whole problem.

For one, my feet have plenty of room in the toe box, and if it were only an issue of sizing, then I would feel cramped everywhere. Additionally, I often have trouble buckling the bottom straps even over my shoe trees, and they’re built to fit shoes as small as a US size 10.

When I buy my next pair of shoes from them, I will choose a size 11, and hopefully, that will prevent this from happening.

Break In Period

The shoes were quite comfortable out of the box, and other than the issue I mentioned with the bottom straps, there were no other places where the shoe felt tight. The insole is cushioned with memory foam, which creates a pleasant footbed, and even while standing all day, the bottoms of my feet never hurt.

Since they’re Blake stitched shoes, they’re more flexible and comfortable than something Goodyear welted, and therefore, they have a shorter break in time. Within a few days, I experienced no discomfort, even when I wore the shoes for an entire day, including some light walking.

I only encountered blistering and chafing when I walked around two miles in one day with the shoes, which, admittedly, is a lot of walking to be doing in dress shoes. Again, this issue may be due to sizing, but I’ll only know that for certain once I purchase my next pair of shoes from them.

Outfit Inspiration

I have found these shoes to be incredibly versatile. By their nature, double monks are more casual than an Oxford shoe, so they can be worn with many outfits with varying degrees of formality. I’ve worn them with everything from a navy three-piece suit to jeans and a polo shirt and everything in between. I’d really only avoid them if you were in either a very formal or very casual setting.

With their deep oxblood color, these shoes pair particularly well with any shades of blue and navy, but they’ll also go well with grays, charcoal, browns, and more. I wouldn’t wear these shoes with anything black, though.

Check out the pictures below to see just a few of the outfits that I’ve worn these shoes with! Use the arrows to scroll through the carousel!

Conclusion: Are Ace Marks Shoes Worth It?

The short answer? Yes! These are great shoes - they have a sleek last, beautiful color, there’s a decent amount of handwork done, and they will last for a long time, especially if you take good care of them.

I’ve been wearing these shoes for over half a year, and they continue to hold up beautifully. Aside from the problem with the bottom straps (which, again, may be due to me picking a size too small), I have encountered no other issues.

These are durable shoes with a fantastic leather upper and a strong leather outsole, and I’m sure that I will continue wearing them for years before I even need to think about a resole.

At $300, Ace Marks shoes provide a great value, especially when you compare them to high-fashion brands. You can spend twice as much on a pair of Gucci loafers, and you won’t be getting anything that Ace Marks shoes don’t have. The construction methods, amount of handwork, and materials used are largely the same.

However, the online men’s shoes landscape is vastly different today than in 2012 when Ace Marks launched. Many other companies have copied their direct-to-consumer model, and they offer comparable quality, sometimes at lower price points.

They sometimes have Kickstarters when they’re launching new shoes, and you can get a pair for around $200. In those instances, there’s no question that they’re worth it - the value is simply unmatched.

At their usual retail price of around $300, it becomes a bit of a harder sell - I spent $100 dollars less on my Meermin Chukka boots, and there’s no difference between them in terms of quality and design. The price difference likely comes down to labor costs; Ace Marks shoes are made in Italy, and Meermin makes their shoes in China.

Regardless, even at their full retail price, I think Ace Marks shoes are worth it. They have a wide array of colors and styles that you can’t find with other manufacturers, they use good materials and construction methods, and I love the shape of their lasts, more so than any of their closest competitors.

I love them so much that I’m already planning my next purchase! If that’s not a testament to their worth, then I don’t know what is!

Another reason why I think this pair, in particular, is worth it is their sheer versatility. They’re dark enough to be worn with most business suits, but by the nature of double monks, you can wear them just as well with more casual ensembles. The same can’t be said for most shoes.

That wraps up my full thoughts about these shoes! I really hope you enjoyed the article, and if you did, please leave a comment below! I love hearing your thoughts and feedback, answering your questions, and interacting with you.

As always, if you have suggestions for future posts or just a word of encouragement, please leave your suggestions below.

Farewell for now.